Palo
Verde National Park &
Dr. Rafael Lucas Rodríguez Caballero National Wildlife Refuge |

What were
formerly a national park and an adjacent national wildlife refuge are
now managed as one large conservation unit that also includes the nearby
Lomas Barbudal Biological Reserve. The Palo Verde sector comprises 13,058
hectares of varied habitats in the lower Tempisque River basin.
Of the mangrove
forests, dry forests, evergreen forests, former pasturelands and other
habitats protected here, the habitat that is primarily responsible for
the creation of the park and refuge lands is the extensive marsh area
that provides an important wintering ground to many species of migrant
North American waterfowl, as well as resident tropical species such as
the jabiru, the largest stork in the New World.
The marshes
fill up with rain and occasional floodwaters during the wet season. As
the dry season progresses, the wetlands are reduced to scattered ponds
and puddles where large concentrations of waterfowl gather. Perhaps the
most numerous species are the resident black-bellied whistling-ducks and
northern jacanas. Palo Verde also provides vital nesting sites for many
native species of birds, the most notable is a small island of mangroves
in the middle of the Tempisque River, known as Isla Pájaros or
Bird Island (not to be confused with another Isla Pájaros located
in the Gulf of Nicoya near Punta Morales). Cattle egrets, roseate spoonbills,
wood storks, anhingas, great egrets and black-crowned night-herons all
use this island for breeding.
During the
dry season, when many of the forest trees are leafless and water is at
a premium, wildlife is often quite easily seen, especially if you find
a water source and wait quietly for the animals to come by for a drink.
Commonly seen mammals at Palo Verde include collared peccaries, white-throated
capuchin monkeys, howler monkeys, white-nosed coatis, white-tailed deer
and variegated squirrels. During the wet season, mosquitoes are quite
common.
To get there:
From the intersection at the town of Bagaces on the Inter-American Highway,
turn west onto a gravel road that leads 19 kilometers to the entrance
station (there are several turns en route, but the way to the park should
be posted). From the entrance it is another 9 kilometers to the administration
building at the old Hacienda Palo Verde.
Entering
by boat from the Tempisque River is also possible. Six kilometers up river
from the village of Puerto Humo (where boats can be hired), there is a
rustic dock at a spot known as Puerto Chamorro, about two kilometers beyond
the administrative area via a dirt road. Further up river from Puerto
Chamorro, the Tempisque becomes very sinuous and the riverside vegetation
takes on a truly jungly aspect, adding to the sensation of being in a
Tarzan movie are the numerous American crocodiles that slide into the
water from the banks as a boat approaches.
Climate:
Palo Verde is one of the hottest and driest parts of Costa Rica. The dry
season extends from mid-November through mid-May most years, but does
vary somewhat. If visiting during the dry season, be sure to drink plenty
of liquid and try to avoid staying in direct sunshine for very long so
as to eliminate the risk of heat exhaustion, or worse, heat stroke.
History:
Geologically, the lower Tempisque River basin is unique in Costa Rica
since the surrounding hills are of limestone and not volcanic rock. This
material was originally formed by corals some 40 to 60 million years ago
when the area was part of the ocean floor. Subsequent shifting of the
continental plates has caused these low hills to rise to their present
heights and also changed the course of the Tempisque River that once flowed
directly out to sea in the general area of what is now the Tamarindo National
Wildlife Refuge.
In the past
century, extensive cattle ranching was the principal agricultural activity
in the area that is now Palo Verde National Park. The haciendas were characterized
by having large tracts of land on which the cattle roamed and grazed freely
with little care other than periodic check-ups or being rounded up and
driven to market. This meant that the natural forests suffered relatively
minor disturbance and the human population level stayed quite low, since
just a few men could handle a large herd. Thus, wildlife fortunately is
still fairly abundant throughout the park and much of the original natural
habitat has been preserved.
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