The city of Cartago was first established in 1563 by the Spanish conquistador Juan Vásquez de Coronado. The original village was situated between the Coris and Purires Rivers, several kilometers southwest of the present day city. This location proved to be poorly chosen, however, because the settlement was flooded so often that it came to be known as the "City of Mud," and in 1572 was transferred to another site closer to what is now San José.

About two years later, the population was again transferred to the current site of the city of Cartago, which remained the capital of the province of Costa Rica throughout the colonial period. In 1823, two years after independence from Spain, the country's governmental seat was moved to San José and Cartago was left to develop as a provincial capital of the new republic.

When Vásquez de Coronado first explored the eastern end of the Central Valley, he found an area populated by numerous indigenous groups, and thus the Spaniards set about the mission of christianizing the native peoples. The first church built in Costa Rica was constructed during the 1560's in the Valley of Ujarrás, near the Reventazón River. The settlement was eventually abandoned because of recurring floods and episodes of pestilence. The ruins of the church are still visible on the site and have been declared a national monument.

The fate of the church in the Cartago parish was not much better. Construction began in 1574, but between then and 1910 the building had to be rebuilt five times because of earthquake damage. Following the massive destruction caused by the Cartago quake of 1910, the church was abandoned and the ruins now form the centerpiece of a park in the middle of town.

Three blocks to the east of the parish ruins stands the Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels, an impressive Byzantine-style church that is the national religious shrine of Costa Rica. Every year, thousands of devotees from across the country make a pilgrimage on foot to honor the Virgin Mary and to render homage for favors conceded. This pilgrimage coincides with the feast day of the Virgin of the Angels held on August 2nd to commemorate the miraculous appearance (and subsequent reappearance) of a small carved image of the virgin mother to a young native girl in 1635. The church was erected on the actual site and the rock on which the statue appeared can be seen in a crypt entered from the left-hand side of the church's altar.

To get there, take Avenida Central out of town, heading towards Cartago. Upon nearing Cartago, stay on the Inter-American Highway and follow the signs for Panama. By bus, take the San Isidro del General bus that leaves near the Coca-Cola bus station. An early start is highly recommended since the mornings are usually sunny and the afternoons are often rainy and foggy along the summit.

One recommended stop en route, either coming or going, or both, is a local version of a greasy spoon truck stop known as "Los Chesperitos." Located near kilometer 76, the newly expanded cafeteria area offers travelers a variety of tasty treats, and their hot chocolate is guaranteed to take the edge off of the worst weather conditions one might encounter on the mountain.

Climate: Sunny mornings can be very pleasant, but overnight temperatures can dip to near freezing, especially from November to January. Bring layers of clothes for being comfortable when out walking around in the varied climate conditions during the course of a day. Take along sun block because if it is sunny the thinner air and cooler temperatures in the highlands can cause you to burn without your even knowing it until it is too late.

History: The name Cerro de la Muerte, which translates as "Mountain of Death,” predates the construction of the Inter-American Highway and refers to the tragic consequences suffered by many who attempted the arduous crossing from the Central Valley to the Valley of San Isidro del General. This entailed a three- or four-day journey, on foot or on horseback, and meant spending at least two nights in the cold and often rainy highlands. Many were ill-prepared for the inclement weather and, if they did not succumb to hypothermia on the spot, perished from complications such as pneumonia later on.

2) Orosi Valley, Cachí Reservoir and Dam: About an hour's drive southeast of San José, just beyond the town of Paraíso, lies this splendorous scenic valley. Taking the road towards Orosi will bring you to a lookout point on the valley rim that is well worth a stop for the panoramic view of the valley below and Irazú Volcano to the north. The town of Orosi is known as the home of the country's oldest church that is still in use. The building dates back to the 1700's. Several natural thermal springs in the area have been made into bathing facilities.

The Orosi River flows out of the Talamanca mountains and Tapantí National Park, and alongside the town before emptying into the reservoir formed by the Cachí Dam. Following the road around the south side of this manmade lake will take you through the village of Cachí and to the dam. One interesting and curious structure between the village and the dam is La Casa del Soñador (The House of the Dreamer), a small house made of coffee trunks--each one sculpted into unique forms and figures.

From the dam, water is piped several kilometers downriver to the actual power generating station (capable of producing 64,000 kW), which can be reached by taking the road to Tucurrique (the turn off is just before the dam, if coming from Cachí). This road provides breathtaking views of the Reventazón River canyon.

Continuing across the dam, you will come to the village of Ujarrás, the site of the ruins of the country’s first church, built in the 1560's. Although most of the valley is dedicated to coffee production, this particular area produces large quantities of chayote, a pear-sized green squash grown on trellises.

Climbing up out of the valley you will pass another scenic overlook offering a view from a different angle. Nearby is a fairly spectacular waterfall.

3) The Pacuare Rivers: The Pacuare River has been declared a Wild and Scenic River, and it is indeed both. This beautiful jungle waterway originates high in the Talamanca Mountains, on the upper slopes of Cerro Cuerici, and empties into the Caribbean Sea after having dropped some 3,000 meters. The Pacuare Protected Zone is located between the Caribbean lowlands and the country's highest mountain range and is one of the isthmus's most important protected areas. This jungle wilderness region is still inhabited by Cabecar Indians.

Considered by many experienced rafters to be the most scenic class III-IV white-water rapids in the world, the Pacuare River offers an adventurous ride filled with stunning natural beauty and exciting rapids. Located strategically inside this zone of protected wilderness is our very special jungle getaway, the Pacuare Lodge, accessible to travelers through our multi-day white-water rafting tours on the Pacuare River.

Since 1986, the Costa Rican Electricity Institute (I.C.E.) has been considering building a dam on this nearly pristine river; however, for the time being, the river still flows wild and free.

4) Lankester Gardens: About 600 of the country's 1,400 native orchid species are on display in this 11-hectare botanical garden, administered by the University of Costa Rica. It began as one of three orchid collections amassed during the early part of the 20th century by Charles Lankester, a British coffee plantation supervisor who was duly impressed by the tremendous variety of orchids he found on the trunks and branches of forest trees that were being felled to make way for more coffee plantations throughout the interior valleys and slopes. Although he did nothing to protect the forests (nor did anybody else in those days), his orchid collections formed a basis for the study and appreciation of these beautiful plants.

The varied landscaping of the gardens creates a number of microhabitats, ranging from rain forest to almost desert, and each area showcases orchids, bromeliads and other plants adapted to the specific conditions of light and humidity. If you can get permission to enter any of the several greenhouses, then you will be in for a real treat (bring a hand lens to be able to adequately admire the many stunning miniature species).

The Lankester Gardens are located just outside of Cartago on the road to Paraíso. Look for a large cube balanced on one corner (by the entrance to Campo Ayala) and turn right; then follow the gravel road back about 300 meters. The botanical gardens are open daily from 8:30 a.m. until 3:30 p.m. Telephone: (506) 551-9877.